![]() ![]() They also produced a wonderful nectarine and blueberry crisp with almond milk ice cream ($7.50) and a grilled white peach with sweetened house-made creme fraiche with amaretto cookie crumbs ($6). In other hands either the rosemary or the olives could dominate, but Stewart was able to preserve the harmony.īoth Estes and Stewart have experience in the pastry kitchen, and it shows admirably in the flaky dough in the crostata ($7.50), with three kinds of plums (picked by one of the chefs, the waiter pointed out) on the crisp cookie crust under the lemon curd tart ($6.50) and especially on the "nutter butter" cookies ($6.50), soft peanut-shaped cookies filled with peanut butter that you dip into a pot of warm chocolate fondue. Dorade ($24), scored with grill marks, is stuffed with preserved lemon and rosemary and presented whole on a bed of shaved fennel with pungent olives. The chef also is able to handle lighter fare with a delicate hand. Falling into hefty strings that soaked up the sauce, the meat was enhanced by the sweet pile of melted onions and mashed potatoes. The pork shoulder ($18) shows a mastery of long-cooked dishes. " The big creamy cloves tamed the sauce and even helped to emphasize the blue cheese in the ravioli, transforming the combination into a balanced triad of flavors. Then Estes came over and said: "The chef - my husband - forgot your roast garlic. The pile of blue cheese ravioli helped, but the sauce still blew everything else away. ![]() The balsamic sauce served underneath seemed much too sweet, even after several bites. He proved himself again on the flat-iron steak ($23), which featured a black charred coating that belied its mild flavor. At first the buttermilk sauce, served in a ramekin on the side, seemed too acidic,īut by the third bite we realized that Stewart knows best: The sauce helped cut the oiliness of the batter and refreshed the palate. The gauzy puff of tempura-like batter gently coated the delicate blossoms. Stewart's ability to fry was proved again on the squash blossoms ($11). The plate also includes fried sweet potatoes that add a subtle sweetness to the mix. The soft-shell crab ($13), nubby with cornmeal, is placed next to a circle of smashed avocado and aioli made spicy from a generous dash of Tabasco. The thick bread has an intense nuttiness, and the Bellwether Farms Carmody cheese has a creamy tang that makes it as distinctive as the soup. Stewart serves the combination as an appetizer, but this adult version features a spicy broth and a sandwich cut into two small triangles. I love the familiar twist on the tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwich ($8.50). The chef tends to crowd appetizers and desserts onto bread plates, making them look less appealing than they are. The flavors were marvelous, but the presentation wasn't. ![]() His grilled asparagus ($9), served with a black pepper sabayon laced with a hearty dose of sherry and white truffle oil, is cleverly paired with tiny summer chanterelles, sauteed crispy so they crackle like bacon. His repertoire includes an innovative panzanella salad ($8) made with grilled whole wheat bread, wedges of at least three kinds of heirloom tomatoes and seasoned white beans tossed with tender leaves of arugula, basil and mint. The food is familiar yet inventive, and Stewart has that elusive knack of being able to balance disparate flavors. The couple fell in love with Willowside when they were in the area planning their wedding, so after hearing it was for sale, they bought it and renamed it Zazu. His family has been in the catering business in New York since 1919. Then became chef at the Palace Kitchen there, where she met her husband. She moved back to the West Coast to be the corporate sous chef for Tom Douglas' three Seattle restaurants, The handsome copper-top tables are still there, as are the five swirling fans, the framed mirrors and the large windows that overlook Guerneville Road, miles of vineyards and the hillsides beyond.Įstes is a San Francisco native who went east to attend Brown University and stayed to work at Al Forno in Providence, R.I. They didn't have a lot of excess capital, so the interior was left pretty much alone. However, Willowside faltered for a while under another owner and finally closed before being taken over by Estes and Stewart. Under the original owners, now involved in Manzanita in Healdsburg, Willowside grew into the type of country gem that diners dream about. ![]()
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